/ valparaiso

after puerto montt, my trip took me to valparaiso, a picturesque port city in chile just west of santiago. i took a 15 hour bus from puerto montt which was not the worst, but the last few hours i was getting pretty antsy. i got into the city around 11am and went to a cafe to find some internet. i booked a hostel a block away and dropped my bags off and freshened up. i went for a 3pm walking tour of the city where i got a good lay of the land.

i woke up very early the next morning and walked all day. i started to walk along the water because i was told there was a market but didn’t find one, so i headed into the touristy hill area and found a cafe – it was all pretty quiet early in the morning for a sunday. i had a nice relaxing breakfast. i got eggs with cheese and bacon and they served it in a bowl with homemade bread.. i also ordered a dulce de leche custard cake and it was one of the best desserts i’ve had down here.

from there, i walked throughout the touristy city and then all throughout the local hills, almost 20 miles in total. i found an enormous flea market which had everything from phone accessories, to car parts, to used clothing, to random garage sale items. it was huge – maybe 1 mile long with about 3-4 rows. from there i walked to a viewpoint i was told about, but then locals on the street told me to be careful with my camera as it wasn’t the safest, so i left.

i walked back into the local hills to get one more drone shot, then took a cab to where i had breakfast. i treated myself to a nice lunch/dinner at cafe turri – one of the nicest resteraunts supposedly in valpo – and it had a gorgeous view over the city and bay.. i headed back to the hostel by bus which cost about 25 cents and freshened up for my ride to mendoza.

the city is covered in street art, murals, and graffiti. it’s not just in the touristy areas but all over. i found almost everyone to be very nice. on my walk through the local hills – of which there are 42 – a woman saw i was out of water and filled up my bottle for me in her home and offered me an apple too. i enjoyed exploring and finding cool places to get some photos. the seafood there is also huge, i had a scallop, crab, and chicken empanada – those are separate empanadas. i also had a crab gratin dish which is apparently a valpo classic.

no one speaks any english though, and it can be very frustrating. i’d like to learn spanish fluently, maybe it’ll come easier once i’m fluent in french.

all images © 2019 dan greenberg.

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